Just like my DIY Zip Up Crop, I’ve had this on the to-do (and on the partially-done) list for a looooong time. You see, I’ve had this RTW cropped white moto style jacket for years and it’s always been the plan to replace with a me made piece. Or two, because why not have them in multiple colors, right? So, while it’s not an exact replica, it was the first inspiration for my moto jacket. I decided to use the Rad Luca Jacket as the base, knowing I’d be making lots of changes.
First, I started with the crop length of the jacket, removed 5″ from the cross over extension and cut the front and back pieces to have princess seams. I cut it as if I was just color blocking and didn’t change the shape of the front, though I did cut a wedge out of the lower back to mimic a swayback adjustment. I cut all of the bodice pieces in a black ponte (except the front center pieces I went back and cut in my leather to act as a facing) and then did some more “color blocking”. I chopped 2″ off the bottom so that I could add a band which would later allow me to add the belt loops. I guess the only thing I cut exactly per pattern was the collar… I cut some epaulets (shoulder tabs), belt loops and a belt. I took the 2″ I chopped off the bottom and removed the princess seams from them so that there would only be the side seams on the waistband.
The epaulets, belt and belt loops are all stitched right sides together, turned through and topstitched. I added a zippered welt pocket to the upper chest of the cross over, it’s just big enough to carry a credit card or lipstick tube. There are pockets added in to the princess seams along the waist: those are 6″ zippers where the chest uses a 4″ zipper. The zippers are all matching YKK zippers with donut pulls purchased from Etsy last year. The belt is finished with eyelets for the belt holes and a buckle I purchased from Etsy. Eyelet and snap hardware was all picked up at Joann’s and most I had on hand already.
Once everything was preppered, I stitched the inner and outer bodice pieces to create my “shell”. I then basted the collar on, the epaulets to the shoulders and the belt loops to the bottom before attaching the “waistband” pieces. I also basted the zipper to the right side cross over so that I could test out the placement of the left side and added the metal snaps to the inner edge of the epaulets. I stitched the zipper tape RST with the cross under and then folded it in half to face up and stitched that down as well. I could have just attached it straight onto the jacket but I wanted to remove some of the visible width of the zipper tape. Finally, the two bodices were clipped together and sewn with the remaining side of the belt loops sandwiched in, leaving a space for turning through itself.
The final touch is adding the sleeves. Again, I didn’t leave this pattern piece alone, either. I wanted to add another zipper detail so I grabbed two more of those 4″ zippers. I cut off 3 1/2″ from the bottom of the sleeve (which leaves 1/2″ seam allowance) and cut the top of the sleeve like that. From there, I measured the width of the sleeve (at the bottom where I’d attach the lower portion). I needed a rectangle 5″ long by that width for each sleeve, and then cut another set of rectangles 5″ long by 3″ wide. The zipper is sandwiched between these pieces so that when the zipper is closed the sleeve is tighter, but unzipping opens the sleeve up. The main sleeve is sewn RST, turned and attached to the jacket in the round, making sure to catch both main and lining layers. The lower zipper portion was hemmed and then attached to the upper sleeve like a band, also in the round. The final step was to thread the belt through the loops!
I took two sets of pictures of the jacket – the one where I’m leaning against a white fence is actually taken with my RP Hayley and So Classic Crop! The next day I put on a pair of Rad Resistance Motos with a leather patch and my rust colored RP Strappy Cami. Both work, but the second look is probably my favorite for this jacket. One day I’ll get around to making new moto pants with this better quality faux leather and then you’ll most likely get another shoot! For now, you can find links to all the stuff below…